general
Draining RV Water System
2008// Filed in: General RVing
When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining.
Caution: Never drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure.
Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. There’s one more thing left to do, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it.
At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all the drains. Now, do not make the mistake that this is how you winterize the RV water system. If you do, it can be a very costly mistake next spring. All we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. If by accident you forget to drain the water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You just need to sanitize the water system.
Start by draining all of the old water out, and then close all of the drains. Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all of the hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets and let it sit for about twelve hours. Drain the entire system and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system.
Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. It’s also a good idea to use a water filter at campgrounds and to keep bottled water on hand for drinking.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |
Cold Weather RVing
2008// Filed in: General RVing
There are lots of things to do and to see in the wintertime; beautiful winter scenery, snow skiing, hunting, riding snowmobiles and much more. It’s no wonder so many people enjoy using their RV’s year round. When winter approaches each year I get numerous e-mails requesting information about using RV’s in cold temperatures. One reason I haven’t written on this subject in the past is because it would require more than just a short article to thoroughly cover this topic. Another reason for not writing about this in the past is that there are no guarantees that your RV can or will be 100 percent protected from the harsh winter elements by following written advice on the subject.
What I can do is offer you some suggestions and ideas that will help to protect your RV if you plan to use it during the cold winter months. I just can’t guarantee that it will be 100 percent protected. These suggestions and ideas are for short term winter camping in your RV. If you plan to take extended RV trips in cold weather there are many other precautions and measures that need to be considered, like using insulated skirting around the bottom of the RV for example.
Note: What we will be concentrating on is how to protect your RV during cold weather camping. It is extremely important that you also understand how to protect yourself and other campers in cold temperatures.
One of the first considerations for cold weather RVing is if you will be traveling in temperatures below freezing. If this is the case, and there is water in the RV water system, your plumbing lines or water heater tank could freeze, resulting in costly repair bills, not to mention ruining your winter wonderland RV trip. To avoid this from happening I travel with the water system winterized. It is actually much easier to winterize an RV than most people think it is, and it’s not very expensive either. I have winterized and de-winterized our RV as many as four times in one winter. Note: Our “Winterizing & Storing Your RV” DVD will teach you how to winterize your RV, by yourself, and save money, especially if you enjoy using your RV during the winter months.
The good news is it is still possible to use the bathroom facilities when you are traveling with the RV winterized. We take one gallon jugs filled with water to use in the toilet, and if your holding tanks are not heated you can put some RV antifreeze in the holding tanks to prevent the contents from freezing. Add the RV antifreeze through the toilet for the black water holding tank and down the shower or tub drain for the gray water tank. The antifreeze will also protect the shower or tub P-trap which is usually located below floor level. The amount of antifreeze required for the holding tanks will be based on the size of the tanks, and it will be necessary to add more RV antifreeze as waste water is added to the tanks to prevent the antifreeze from being diluted.
Don’t allow the holding tanks to fill completely, before emptying them, during cold weather camping. This will reduce the chance of freezing, resulting in damage to the holding tanks. Take bottled water along for drinking and other needs like cooking, washing up and brushing your teeth when the RV is winterized. We have a five gallon jug that we always take on trips, filled with tap water from our house, for our pet’s drinking water and our other needs. This comes in handy when the RV is winterized.
When we arrive at our destination I try to select a site that will be exposed to the sun throughout the day, but also where there is some type of wind break available. Position the RV on the site so the front or rear will be facing the brunt of any wind, not the side of the RV. If there is an electrical hook-up I de-winterize the water system so we can use everything. All of the water lines in our motorhome are above floor level, in a heated space, so we don’t need to be too concerned about the water system freezing as long as the RV has heat. We leave the water heater turned on whenever the water heater tank is full so there is no chance of it freezing. Some water heaters operate off of LP gas and electricity. Keep in mind if it’s in the electric mode it will use 9 to 13 amps.
It’s important that you know where all of the plumbing on your RV is located. Some RVs have heat ducts going to the basement storage areas where the water system is exposed to outside temperatures, but many RVs do not. If portions of the RV water system are below floor level, in areas that are not heated, it is possible for it to freeze and damage the water lines. If you are hooked up to an external water supply one option is to leave a faucet in the RV dripping, to keep the water moving, and decrease the possibility of water lines freezing. Another option is to use heat tape to protect the exposed water lines. Heat tape can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores. Make sure it is suitable for the types of water lines in your RV, and if you plan to use it on a water hose.
If it is extremely cold outside and the possibility exists that the outside water supply could freeze, or if the campground water supply is shut off for the winter, I fill our fresh water holding tank and use it for all of our water requirements. Again, keep in mind where your fresh water tank is located; ours is above floor level in a heated area. If the campgrounds shower facilities are still open it’s a good idea to use them to avoid the gray water holding tank from filling so quickly. In this situation it might be in your best interest to keep the RV winterized and just use the campgrounds facilities.
Tip: If you haven’t purchased your RV yet and you know you will be using an RV in cold weather make sure to include an artic package option when you buy it. Some packages include higher R-factor insulation, enclosed underbelly, heated holding tanks, dual pane windows and more.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |
RV Terminology Part 6
2008// Filed in: General RVing
T
Tag Axle - A non-drive axle located behind the rear drive axle that is used to support the weight of the RVs overhang.
Three Way Refrigerator - An RV refrigerator that can operate off of 12-volt DC, 120-volt AC and LP gas.
Toad - Another term used for the vehicle towed behind a motor home. Also called a dinghy.
Tongue Jack - The jack mounted on the A frame of the trailer that supports the front of the trailer and is used to raise and lower the trailer when hitching and unhitching.
Tongue Weight -Tongue Weight or Hitch Weight is the amount of weight pressing down on the vehicle’s hitch from the coupler of the trailer when the trailer is fully loaded for travel. For trailers that weigh over 2,000 pounds TW should be 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight.
Tote tank - A portable tank used to dump the contents of a holding tank in to and then transport it to a dump station to be emptied.
Tow Bar - A tow bar is used to connect a towed vehicle to a motor home when the vehicle is towed with all four wheels on the ground.
Tow Dolly - A trailer used to tow a vehicle behind a motor home when the vehicle cannot be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two of the vehicles wheels are on the tow dolly and two are on the road surface.
Toy Hauler - An RV that has a ramp door on the back and cargo space to load motorcycles, ATVs or other toys inside.
Transmission Oil Cooler - A small heat exchanger or radiator designed to protect your transmission from overheating. Automatic transmission fluid circulates through the oil cooler and is cooled by the airflow.
Travel Trailer - An RV that is towed by a car, van, or pickup, by means of a hitch. Travel Trailers are a popular choice among RVers because of the wide array of floor plans available. Whether it’s for two people or eight you can find a model that will suit your needs. They range in size from 15 to 37 feet and offer all the comforts of home. They can be unhitched from the tow vehicle when you arrive at your destination.
Truck Camper - Truck campers are campers loaded onto the bed of a pickup truck. The tailgate is removed and the truck camper is attached to the truck with tie-downs. This makes for a very versatile RV that can access back roads and remote areas other RVs can’t get to.
TT - Abbreviation for travel trailer.
TV - Abbreviation for tow vehicle.
W
Water Pressure Regulator - A water pressure regulator is used to prevent too much water pressure from entering the RV and damaging the plumbing system. You attach the pressure regulator to the campground water supply and then attach one end of your drinking hose to the regulator and the other end to the city water inlet on the RV.
Weight Carrying Hitch - When all of the tongue weight of the trailer is supported by the hitch itself. WC hitches are normally used for lighter trailer applications. Too much weight directly on the hitch can affect the steering and handling of the tow vehicle.
Weight Distributing Hitch - when additional hardware is used to distribute a percentage of the trailers tongue weight to the axles of the tow vehicle and the axles of the trailer. WD hitches are used to tow heavier trailers and allow the tow vehicle to handle better. Also referred to as an equalizing hitch.
Wheelbase - The distance between the centerlines of the primary axles of a vehicle.
Wide Body - An RV that is wider than 8’. The majority of RVs are 8’ wide. A wide body RV is usually 8’ 6” wide.
This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |
RV Terminology Part 5
2008// Filed in: General RVing
O
OEM - Abbreviation for Original Equipment Manufacturer
Overhang - The portion of the motor home that extends from the rear axle to the rear of the motor home.
P
Park Model - An RV trailer designed to be taken to a location such as a campground or resort area and set up permanently. A park model trailer has more household type features and amenities than a travel trailer.
Pilot Flame - The pilot flame is a small flame used to light the main burner of an LP gas fired appliance. The pilot flame heats a thermocouple control that opens the flow of gas to the burner.
Porpoising - A term used to describe the up and down movement of an RV when traveling.
Portable Toilet or Porta Potty - A portable RV toilet with a fairly small water tank and holding tank. When the holding tank is full it can be removed and emptied at a dump station.
Pull Through Site - A campground site that requires no backing. The site is designed for you to drive or pull through.
R Refer - A short term for your RV refrigerator.
Regulator- LP gas regulators control or regulate the LP gas flow through all appliances, and maintain the proper operating pressure in the LP gas system.
Rig - A term RVers use for their RV.
RV - Abbreviation for Recreation Vehicle. A Recreation Vehicle combines transportation and living quarters for recreation, camping, and travel. They can be classified in two basic groups, motorized RVs and towable RVs. Motorized RVs include Class A, Class B and Class C motor homes. Towables include pop-ups, travel trailers, fifth wheels and truck campers.
RVDA - Recreation Vehicle Dealers Association
RVIA - Recreation Vehicle Industry Association
S
Safety Chains - Safety chains are used on trailers in case of a hitch failure. One end of the chain is attached to the trailers A-frame, and the other end to a permanent fixture on the tow vehicle, normally the receiver. The chains are crossed “X” to form a saddle that would prevent the coupler from contacting the road surface in the event of a separation.
Screen Room - A screened in enclosure that attaches to the exterior of an RV. They provide protection from insects and rain. Screen rooms are most commonly used with pop-ups.
Sewer hose - A flexible hose that attaches to the RV sewer outlet and the campground sewer used to dump or empty holding tanks. You should have a 10’ and 20’ hose available with necessary sewer hose attachments.
Sewer hose donut - A plastic or rubber ring used to get a good seal between the sewer hose and the campground sewer connection. Sewer hose donuts are required at many campgrounds.
Shore Power - Shore power is a term used for plugging the RV in to an external 120-volt power source such as at a campground.
Slide-In - A truck camper that slides in to the bed of a pickup truck.
Slide-Out - A section of the RV that slides out to provide you with additional living space. Some RVs have multiple slide outs.
Slider Hitch - A 5th wheel hitch used with short wheel base pickup trucks. With short wheel base trucks the front of the 5th wheel trailer can make contact with the cab of the truck when turning to sharp. A slider hitch has two positions. One for normal driving conditions and one for maneuvering where turns are required.
Snowbird - RVers that head south for the winter.
Stabilizer Jacks - Jacks that are used on the corners of an RV to stabilize it when it is set up at the campground. Some are mounted to the frame of the RV and others are portable. Stabilizer jacks are not designed to level the trailer
Stick and Tin - An RV with wood framing and corrugated aluminum exterior.
Surge Brakes - A hydraulic braking system used on some lightweight trailers. Surge brakes activate when the trailer surges or pushes against the hitch ball when slowing down.
Sway Control - A device used to help control trailer sway. There are two basic types of add on sway control, friction and cam action.
This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |
RV Terminology Part 3
2008// Filed in: General RVing
H
Heat Strip - An electric heating element in a roof mounted air conditioner. These are usually used on pop-ups or other trailers that do not have a furnace. A heat strip will take the chill off, but is not designed to actually heat the trailer.
Hitch Receiver- The hitch receiver is mounted to the frame of the tow vehicle. The ball mount slides into the receiver. There are five classes of hitch receivers based on the maximum amount of weight the receiver can handle.
Hitch Weight - Hitch weight or Tongue Weight (TW) is the amount of weight pressing down on the vehicle’s hitch from the coupler of the trailer when the trailer is fully loaded for travel. For trailers that weigh over 2,000 pounds TW should be 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight. For fifth wheel trailers hitch weight should be 15 to 20 percent of the loaded trailer weight.
Hydraulic Leveling Jacks - Used for leveling an RV, typically a Class A motor home, they are leveling jacks that operate using hydraulics and are controlled by levers or a touch pad normally located near the drivers seat.
I
Inverter - An electrical device that changes12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power. It is used to power 120-volt appliances or electronics such as a microwave or TV when you don’t have access to an external 120-volt power source. The amount of power that is available depends on the storage capacity of your battery(s) and the wattage rating for the inverter.
K
Kilowatts - Power generators are rated in kilowatts. Each kilowatt equals 1,000 watts.
L
LP Gas - Liquid propane or liquefied petroleum is the gas used for RV appliances. Typically it is used for the range burners, oven, water heater and the LP gas mode of the refrigerator. LP gas is stored in cylinders or bottles on trailers and in tanks mounted to the frame of motor homes.
LP Gas Leak detector - LP gas leak detectors are audible alarms that warn you of a potential gas leak. They are normally located close to the floor level of the RV because LP gas is heavier than air and will settle towards the floor.
M
MH - Abbreviation for Motor Home.
Monitor Panel - Allows you to check or monitor the fluid levels in the gray, black and fresh water holding tanks. You can also check the condition of the auxiliary battery(s) and on some monitor panels the propane level.
N
NADA Book - The RV edition of the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) book is used by RV dealers to determine used RV values.
This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |
RV Winterizing RV Winterizing By Mark Polk
2008// Filed in: General RVing
Fall is the time of year you need to decide if your camping season is over. Parking your RV for the winter requires some preventive measures so it will be ready to use next spring. You’ll also be glad you did it when you don’t have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of winter. Now the question is how do you prepare it for winter, and who will be doing it? If you’re like me and you enjoy performing the routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars, the “who” part is answered. As for the “how” part, this checklist is the same one I used to make our Winterizing & Storing video. I feel it is the easiest and most effective way to winterize your RV.
Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores: Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do). A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed. A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump. Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs. Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV. If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass them before starting. Drain the fresh water holding tank. Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves. Drain the water heater. CAUTION: Never drain when hot or under pressure. Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower. Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained. Recap all drains and close all faucets. By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze. Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze. Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required. Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower. Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears. Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen. Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a few cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank. If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored. Make sure all faucets are closed. Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines. Your RV is winterized. This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines.
Happy Camping! Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores: Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do). A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed. A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump. Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs. Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV. If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass them before starting. Drain the fresh water holding tank. Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves. Drain the water heater. CAUTION: Never drain when hot or under pressure. Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower. Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained. Recap all drains and close all faucets. By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze. Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze. Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required. Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower. Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears. Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen. Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a few cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank. If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored. Make sure all faucets are closed. Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines. Your RV is winterized. This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines.
Happy Camping! Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Terminology Part 1
2008// Filed in: General RVing
I guess because I work in the RV Industry and around RVs almost everyday I take some things for granted. One of those things is RV terminology. When you hear these terms everyday you just assume that everybody understands them.
A
Aluminum Frame Construction - When the RV framing is made of aluminum as opposed to wood.
Artic Package - An RV that is equipped with additional insulation and heated holding tanks for winter camping.
Awning - A canvas or vinyl covering mounted to the side of an RV that provides shade. Some awnings are retractable and use a spring-loaded roller tube. Other awnings must be rolled out by hand and are supported by poles, rope tie downs and stakes.
Axle Ratio - The number of times the drive shaft must turn to turn the axle one time. If you have a 3.73:1 axle ratio the drive shaft turns 3.73 times for each full turn of the axle. The higher the numeric value of the axle ratio the better the vehicle will tow, and the higher the numeric value the more gas you will use.
B
Backup Monitor - A monitor located in the driver’s view that is attached to a small camera on the back of a motor home. It is used to assist in backing the motor home and to monitor what is happening behind you while you are traveling.
Ball & Ball Mount - Hitch balls have three basic measurements, the ball diameter, the shank diameter and the shank length. Ball diameter sizes come in 1 7/8”, 2” and 2 5/16”. The ball size must be the right size for the coupler on the trailer you are towing, and be rated to tow the trailers GVWR. The ball mount is the removable portion of the hitch that slides into the hitch receiver. For Weight Carrying (WC) hitches it may be necessary to find a ball mount with a drop or rise to help level the trailer when its hooked up to the tow vehicle. An adjustable ball mount is used for heavier trailer applications. Adjustable ball mounts allow the ball to be raised, lowered or tilted to compensate for trailer tongue weight and to attain proper height adjustments. Adjustable ball mounts are normally used with Weight Distributing (WD) hitches.
Basement Storage - Storage compartments or storage area located below the floor of the motor home. You access the storage from outside. Some storage areas are referred to as pass through storage, which means it goes from one side of the RV to the other with no dividers, and can be accessed from either side.
Black Water Holding Tank - A tank mounted under the RV that collects water and waste from the toilet. When the tank is 3⁄4 or more full it is emptied or dumped into an approved dump station or campground sewer. The black water tank is treated with chemicals to control odor and assist in breaking down waste.
Brake Controller - An electronic controller that is normally mounted under the dashboard of the tow vehicle, but within hands reach of the driver. The controller is designed to activate the trailer brakes when the tow vehicle brakes are applied. It also has a manual over ride that can be used to activate the trailer brakes without using the vehicle brakes.
Breakaway Switch - A switch that is wired into the trailers brake system. It is attached from the trailer to the tow vehicle by a cable lanyard. In the event that the trailer and vehicle separate the cable pulls a pin from the switch and the trailer brakes are activated. The switch must have a 12-volt source to operate.
Bumper Pull - A term used to describe towing a travel trailer or pop-up. Also referred to as a pull behind.
C
Cab over - The portion of a class C motor home that extends over the vehicle cab. It is usually designed as a bed.
Campground Hook-Ups - When you hook-up or connect your RV to the campground electric, water and sewer utilities. This would be considered a full hook-up. Some campgrounds may only offer one or two of these connections.
Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC) - is the maximum permissible weight of personal belongings and cargo that can be added to the RV. CCC is equal or less than GVWR minus UVW, full fresh water weight, and full LP gas weight.
City Water Connection - A water connection on the outside of the RV that is used when you have an external water supply such as at a campground. A potable water hose is used to connect the water supply to the city water connector on the RV.
Class A or Type A motor home - They are the largest of the motorized RV’s ranging in size from 25 to 45 feet. Commonly referred to as a conventional motor home they are the ones you see that look similar to a bus, and depending on the price they can be equipped with features like washers and dryers, multiple slide out rooms, satellite dishes, home entertainment systems and much more.
Class B or Type B motor home - They are the smallest of motorized RV’s ranging in size from16 to 20 feet. They are conversion vans that have been modified and equipped with sleeping, eating and bathroom facilities and amenities found in other RVs in a compact size.
Class C or Type C motor home - They are also referred to as mini-motor homes and are built on a cutaway van chassis. They range in size from 20 to 31 feet.
Converter - An electrical device that converts 120-volt AC power into 12-volt DC power. With the exception of the roof air conditioner, microwave, TV and the electric mode of the refrigerator almost everything in an RV operates on 12-volt DC power supplied by a battery. When you’re plugged in to a 120-volt electrical source the converter changes the 120-volts AC to 12-volts DC so everything can operate without draining the battery(s). The converter also has a battery charger that will keep the battery(s) topped off when you are plugged in to a 120-volt power source.
Coupler- Located on the front of the trailer A-frame the coupler attaches the trailer to the ball on the hitch.
This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |
RV Terminology Part 2
2008// Filed in: General RVing
When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining.
Caution: Never drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure.
Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. There’s one more thing left to do, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it.
At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all the drains. Now, do not make the mistake that this is how you winterize the RV water system. If you do, it can be a very costly mistake next spring. All we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. If by accident you forget to drain the water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You just need to sanitize the water system.
Start by draining all of the old water out, and then close all of the drains. Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all of the hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets and let it sit for about twelve hours. Drain the entire system and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system.
Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. It’s also a good idea to use a water filter at campgrounds and to keep bottled water on hand for drinking.
Happy Camping,
Mark
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. |