http://www.classblife.com/index.htmlHot Articles!enwww.classblife.comCopyright 2008 2008-09-25T19:01:43-07:00 hourly 1 2000-01-01T12:00+00:00 Sat, 09 Aug 2008 07:05:50 -0700www.classblife.comSolar Power2008-09-25T19:01:43-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-23http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-23A lot of RV owners consider their vehicle to be just as much of a home as their actual house. That's why it only makes sense to consider a solar-powered RV as well as a solar home, especially when you spend a great amount of time on the road. And like all things solar, not only are there environmental benefits, but solar power is rewarding in a practical sense as well.
For instance, solar systems weigh less than a small generator that RVs are usually outfitted with, not to mention the gasoline they require. And clearly, RV owners want their machine to run faster and better, so less weight (and fumes) is always the best bet! A luxury comfort that solar systems provide is that they produce zero noise. RVs are usually intended for the purpose of getting away from it all, and relaxing, so what better way to achieve that, than to cut back on sound pollution? Solar systems require no special skills to operate, no assembly, virtually no maintenance, and of course, they're great for the environment! You can feel good knowing that your family vacation or road trip is not polluting the beautiful scenery that you bought your RV to enjoy in the first place.
Now that we know why solar power is a great alternative to traditional methods of powering recreational vehicles, how can we apply this knowledge to our RVs? Here are some basic things to consider in order to create an efficiently-running solar system for your travels.
First, establish the size of your load. Factors to consider are how many people will be traveling with you, how big your particular model of RV is, and what activities you anticipate using your RV for. For example, a rough estimate of power needed for a family camping trip is 325 watt hours. One watt-hour is the amount of energy expended by a one-watt load that draws power for one hour. This includes light bulbs, heater fans, water pumps, TVs, radios, coffee pots, amongst other miscellaneous items, and the estimated amount of time each of these items is used per day. For dry camping enthusiasts, solar power is a must. Dry camping entails extended camping trips with limited facilities. Your solar energy provider can help you determine what your RV will need.
How much sunlight will you expect to get in your location? It is important to find out how much estimated sunlight will be reaching your area when you travel, and many resources are available to help you acquire this knowledge. The Center for Renewable Energy and Sustainable Technology or CREST, can help you find out how much sunlight different locations receive, at different times of the year. So can the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL). Your solar panel can also be adjusted to different angles throughout the day, to absorb the maximum amount of sunlight possible.
Adding solar power to your life is a great way to save the environment and your money. Find solar powered products and information at solarpoweredlife.com and start going green today.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brennan_S_Howe
]]>www.classblife.comSolar Power2008-09-25T19:01:00-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-22http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-22The first thing to realize is that you are probably not going to be able to generate enough power to fill all your electricity needs for a whole day with your new RV solar panel. A single 50 watt RV solar panel will generate approximately 200 watts of power per day (given sunny circumstances, that is), especially when you consider that it is only during the heat of the day, when the sun is highest in the sky, that the RV solar panel will get the bulk of its charge.
Now, 200 watts is certainly nothing to shake a stick at. Far from trying to discourage you from undertaking this admirable task, we just want to advise you go into it with realistic expectations. The purpose of an RV solar panel should be to supplement your available power, not provide all of it.
With that in mind, it’s a good idea to first sit down and figure out how much supplemental power you’d (realistically) like your RV solar panel system to generate for you. How much power are you planning to run? What is the wattage on your TV, fan, blender, etc. and how long do you intend to run each of them in one day. If you think you’ll be using 800 watts, for example, then you’ll need to install 4 panels. If you live in less sunnier climes, you may need more.
The best and most resourceful idea is to get yourself a deep cycle battery (or two or three) so that you can charge up when the sun’s out and an inverter so that you can plug right in and utilize the solar power you’ve collected whenever you need it, even if it’s dark or raining out.
Be sure, however, that either your batteries or your RV solar panel have a charging controller that will meter the charging process and shut it down before you overcharge your batteries. Barring that, an additional battery charge meter is invaluable. Without one, you risk prematurely reducing the lifespan of your RV solar panel batteries.
When you install the panel RV solar, tilt it upwards so that you can catch the most sun during its peak hours (11am-3pm) when it’s highest in the sky. Do also take care to keep in mind the new height of your RV now that it’s got an RV solar panel on top of it. The last thing you want to do is smack that into a low underpass, right?
Solar power can save you a lot of bucks and it really looks cool! Visit our Solar Guide for ideas to save money on your energy bills.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Cubert
]]>www.classblife.comSolar Power2008-09-25T19:00:21-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-21http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-21If you RV, you undoubtedly like the freedom of cruising around where you will. Sooner or later, however, you have to find somewhere to plug in…or do you?
The beauty of RVing is you get to wander off the beaten path and explore interesting areas. That being said, nothing is worse than being in a beautiful area where there is no place to plug in. For many people, this means cranking on a generator that sucks down the fuel. Given fuel costs these days, that is becoming less and less a good option. In fact, many people are moving away from it entirely.
Technology seems to be invading just about every part of our life for better or for worse. In the case of portable solar panels, it for the better. Vast advancements have been made in solar panel design. No longer are they used solely for homes. Yep, you can now use them to power up your RV.
Portable solar panels for an RV are pretty much what you might think. They are just like the panels you see in peoples’ backyards or on their roofs. The primary difference is these are smaller, but still pack plenty of punch to meet your energy needs. Even better, one of the weaknesses of home solar panels does not exist with an RV. Solar panels produce DC electricity that has to be converted to AC for a home. Energy is lost in the process. Since an RV runs on DC, the problem is eliminated and you get more kick out of your panels.
A portable panel system can be very powerful. In fact, it can put as much power into your batteries as a gas or propane generator. Another advantage is your solar panel system will not make the noise of a generator. On the downside, it also does not produce energy at night, so you need to do some minor planning for your energy needs.
Using solar panels for an RV is a fairly simple process. You need between one and three of them. You can try to figure out your energy usage to determine the correct number, but it is easier to just ask the dealer. Anyway, you mount your panels on the roof. They fold down flat to the roof when you are driving. When you park, you should park in the sun and in a direction where the panels will get the maximum exposure. If you prefer to park in the shade, you can buy a portable system that you can move around on the ground. Make sure you have a long cord in case the sun is a bit off in the distance.
The energy from your solar panels should be able to keep your batteries charged so long as there is sun. The only issue you may run into is air conditioning. RV air conditioners suck the power down, so use it sparingly or turn on a generator.
Adrien White is with RVRentalsforYou.com - information on RV rentals, dealers, parks and more.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Adrien_White
]]>www.classblife.comSolar Power2008-09-25T18:59:36-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-20http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-20RV solar power is for those who are on the go. If you are a regular traveler then you will love RV solar power. Imagine you never having to stop to recharge. Read on..
RV road trips can be a lot of fun. You have your whole family, or all your friends, and you’re headed to wherever you’re going in a completely self-sufficient vehicle stocked with everything you need to eliminate stops.
Completely Stocked For Everyone’s Needs
You have a bathroom, a kitchen, and even a TV or two. Many RVs now have many other electronics that make riding in one much like moving in a celebrity tour bus; all your needs are taken care of. However, with all of these added perks comes the need for more electricity, which means you have to stop every now and again to recharge.
As you use all of your electronics, such as your TV, your stove to cook or even a hair dryer if someone is getting ready for the day, it all takes juice. Wouldn’t it be great if you could power your RV with the natural rays of the sun?
That’s right, you can now get your RV outfitted with RV solar power panels. RV solar power panels absorb the natural rays of the sun, that will beat down on your RV during the day, and then it will power it at night. This will completely eliminate the need for stops to recharge. You will constantly have enough juice for all your electric needs and you got it all with RV solar power.
Ask your RV dealer if you can get RV solar power installed on your model. If you don’t yet have an RV and you’re in the market to get one, ask the dealer if you can get RV solar power for the RV you’d like to purchase or lease.
Just understand that you’ll likely pay a little extra, as RV solar power is a perk. It saves you time and money and, therefore, as with anything, you must pay extra for it.
However, no matter what you pay for it, it will come back to you many times over as you travel to and from various destinations. You can eliminate stopping for recharging and you can spend more time at your destinations instead of traveling to and from them.
RV solar power should be on every RV and soon it will. If your’s doesn’t, or if you’d like to inquire about one that does, call your local RV dealer and ask about RV solar power.
Visit http://www.usesolarpower.net for useful tips on how to use solar power as your source of energy for different needs.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gayasri_Gamanayake]]>www.classblife.comSolar Power2008-09-25T18:57:36-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-19http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-19RV Solar Panels - How to Get Started
The functionality of solar power is still a new concept to many RVers. Many believe that solar power systems are not practical or that the systems are too complex and expensive. After one experiences solar power generation, many agree that it is one of the most useful tools to come around in a long time.
The creation of solar power is pretty simple. Solar panels convert light from the sun into energy. The process is known as “photovoltaic process”. The word Photovoltaic is a combination of the Greek word for Light and the name of the physicist Allesandro Volta.
95% of all solar cells are made up of the semiconductor silicone (SI). As light hits the cells, the semiconductor absorbs the light and electrons on the semiconductor are excited creating an electrical reaction in the form of a DC charge. The DC current can then be used immediately or routed to batteries for storage.
Setting Up An RV Solar Panel System.
The components needed to set up an RV solar panel system are:

• A Solar panel
• A Charge Controller
• A Storage Battery
• And an Inverter

Multiple solar panels can be wired together to generate enough power for the needed output. The most important factor when choosing the right panels is the semiconductor material. Crystalline panels produce power more efficiently and have a longer life span than other semiconductor materials.
A charge controller is another piece of equipment needed. The charge controller monitors the batteries and when current is needed, it is supplied in the right amount. The controllers voltage regulation is needed to ensure the batteries are not damaged by excessive voltage. 12v solar panels can produce voltages up to 19-21 volts depending on the amount of sunlight. Charge controllers are rated in amps. This is the total amount of current is can regulate.
Where To Store The Power For Later Use.
The energy produced by solar panels is normally stored in “Deep Cell” batteries for future use. Deep cell batteries are the favored choice due to the fact that they are designed to be discharged and recharged over and over again.
The amount of power need determines that amount of batteries needed. Batteries are rated in amp hours. For example, a 1 amp hour battery will provide 1 amp of current for 1 hour. Two 150 amp hour batteries in parallel would total 300 amp hours and would provide 10 amps of power for 30 hours. To determine how much power is needed, Add up the total current draw of all the loads on your RV.
The lights in your RV are typically DC and can be operated from the storage battery But most appliances run on AC power. In most cases you will need an inverter. An inverter converts DC power into standard AC current.
Inverters usually come in two types, “True Sine Wave” and “Modified Sine Wave”. Modified sine wave inverters are usually cheaper and can be used to power basic ac power devices.
True sine wave inverters are best for sensitive electronic equipment such as laptop computers, etc. Inverters are rated based on how much power they can supply.
Connecting Solar Panels Together.
Solar panels can be connected together to obtain a higher voltage or power capacity. Connecting two 12volts 5amp panels together in series would give you 24volts 5amps. Connecting two panels in parallel would yield 12volts 10amps. The same is true for batteries.
The panels are then connected to the charge controller. The controller then connects to the batteries. And then the batteries would connect to the inverter. The inverter can then be connected to route AC power to the RV’s electrical outlets.
So there you have it. RV solar panels are great for dry camping or on the go. Solar power is clean, reliable, and the most cost effective means of keeping your batteries charged and the lights on.
Author: Steve Vox http://www.stevevox.com
RV Solar Power: http://www.stevevox.com/getting-started-with-rv-solar-panels.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Vox]]>www.classblife.comSolar Power2008-09-25T18:56:22-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-18http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-18RV Solar Panels
No matter what you are planning on doing, there is probably a solar system available to help you generate power. On increasingly popular choice is RV solar panels, which can help you run these large vehicles off the power of the sun. If you are interested in helping to save money as well as help the environment, you should research your options for what kind of RV solar panels are available.
RV solar panels are a component of an electrical system which converts light from the sun to electricity. This electricity is used to charge the RV batteries and are capable of running all the basics in your RV, including the lighting and appliances. On great advantage of using RV solar panels is that you can travel to a wider variety of locations. No longer will you have to worry about finding a source of power for your vehicles when you travel. As long as the sun is shining, you will be taking your power with you.
Thousands of companies in countries around the world now offer different RV solar panels for your convenience. When you decide to make the purchase, spend time researching which options are available to you so you can buy the best system and the lowest possible price.
Alpine Survival
Alpine Survival is one of the top choices for people looking to purchase RV solar panels. The RV solar panels that they sell are durable, lightweight, and easy to transport. One of the benefits of these and other top of the line solar panels is that they continue to generate electricity even if they are in partial shade.
Even the clumsy need not worry about the durability of Alpine Survival RV solar panels. You can pack them up and transport them without worrying about breaking them. They are so durable that it has been reported that dropping them and stepping on them still does not cause them to be ruined (although I would not recommend trying)! These RV solar panels have a unique design with lightweight construction and a nylon fabric covering which allows the entire unit to be folded into the size of a book. This makes them perfect to store and transport.
Mr. Solar
Another brand to consider when purchasing RV solar panels is Mr. Solar. They sell many of the most high efficiency brand names and kits, including such reliable names as Sharp, Sanyo, Photowatt, Mitsubishi, BP, GE, and more. This selection of RV solar panels and kits will ensure that you can find the exact one you want for your RV.
If you love to travel, RV solar panels are the perfect option. Your trips will be more convenient because you will no longer have to base your destination on where you can find a power source. Not only that, but you will save money by reducing your use of a traditional gas generator. With rising fuel prices, RV solar panels make practical sense for any traveler.
Jon Kelly is a published author who writes articles and reviews on solar power and its applications. If you would like to find out about solar power and learn more about solar panels.please visit: http://www.worldsolarpanels.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Kelly
]]>www.classblife.comInsurance2008-09-12T12:53:46-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-17http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-17RV insurance companies and providers work very hard to be competitive and to give you the lowest possible RV insurance cost with the best coverage. One of the best ways to compare these policies is to go online. Visit any RV insurance website and enter the required information about the type of coverage and your recreational vehicle information and on some sites you can get a quote within a few minutes telling you what your RV insurance cost would be. Make sure that you have the same level of coverage on every site so that the comparison will be equal.
You should try to figure the RV insurance cost into your budget when you are in the process of buying your new or used RV. This is similar to what you would do if you were buying a home. That way there are no surprises and you will not get a more expensive RV than you can comfortably afford, and you will have good coverage to protect your investment.
Some people think that they will save money by getting regular automobile insurance on their RV. But the RV insurance cost is comparable to automobile insurance costs and the coverage is much more comprehensive and RV-specific. It covers the awnings, the stairs, and the slideouts as well as the propane tanks and other equipment that automobile insurance just doesn’t cover. You can even get full replacement coverage that will assist you in replacing your RV if it is ever totaled.
Although buying insurance may not be your favorite thing to do, and you may sometimes feel that it is wasted money because you never have to make a claim, if you do make a claim you will be so happy that you have the coverage you need and the peace of mind to keep going.


Eriani Doyel writes articles about recreational vehicles. For more information about rv insurance cost visit quickrvinsurancequotes.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eriani_Doyel]]>www.classblife.comInsurance2008-09-12T12:53:05-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-16http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-16Awnings and Slide outs-Because many people are not accustomed to driving with an extra half of a foot sticking out on the side of their vehicle, they sometimes misjudge clearance and hit obstacles. RV insurance coverage will help you to have the damage repaired. Another problem associated with awnings is weather damage. If it is extremely windy, you may want to put your awning in travel position. When it is raining, you should at least put one outer corner lower for the rain to run off. Never leave your awning out and unattended. Any time you put the awning in travel position make sure that it is securely fastened. These steps will help you to avoid having to utilize your RV insurance coverage.
Fires from Gas Leaks: Most RVs have at least some components such as the refrigerator, the water heater, etc. that run using a propane or LP tank. The most commonly reported claim is fires behind the refrigerator as the result of gas leaks. You can help to limit claims on your RV insurance coverage by getting your system checked at least once a year. Check for any leaks in the tank, in the gas lines, etc.
Tires: One thing that is a common claim on not only RV insurance coverage, but automobile coverage as well is blown out tires. In the best cases, you go veering off to the side of the road, but in the worst cases, it can be much more damaging and devastating. Check tires frequently for worn spots, brittleness, air pressure, and alignment and make sure to have them rotated.
Pests: One little known, but common cause of RV insurance claims is damage from pests like mice and squirrels. Seal up any holes that they might enter and clean out any food or crumbs before you put your RV in storage.
RV insurance is a valuable tool-but it is better not to need to use it.


Eriani Doyel writes articles about Recreational Vehicles. For more information about rv insurance coverage visit quickrvinsurancequotes.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eriani_Doyel]]>www.classblife.comInsurance2008-09-12T12:52:33-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-15http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-151. Can I just use an auto insurance policy? Yes, you can. But, an RV insurance policy will cover the parts of the RV that the auto policy will not such as the stairs, the slideouts, and the awnings. These are some of the most common claims made for RVs. Not only that, if you have a towable RV or truck camper your automobile insurance will not cover it at all. If you have a towable, with some insurers you can have a combined policy which will cover the RV and the tow vehicle for a discounted price.
2. Where can I find RV insurance? You can find it through a regular insurance company, but they will not have the variety of products and RV policies that a company that specializes in RV insurance will have. For one of the best and easiest ways to shop for insurance you can go online, get quick free quotes, compare different companies, and apply. Just be sure that you are comparing policies with the same level of coverage.
3. Can I get RV insurance for my tent trailer? Yes you can. You can insure any type of RV from a truck camper to a full-size, ultra-luxury, diesel pusher motor home. It can also be new or used of any age.
4. What does the RV insurance cover? Most RV policies offer full coverage. This covers your RV no matter what happens and whose fault it is. A good policy will also offer total replacement for a new RV (less than 5 years old and with the original owner) that is totaled, or for a used RV (or one that is older than 5 years) you will get the purchase price back as a settlement in the event your RV is totaled.
5. How long does it take to apply? You can get a quote and apply and be approved in as little as a day.
6. Is it different than an extended warranty? Yes, an extended warranty covers engine repairs and appliances not accidents. This is why you need both.


Eriani Doyel writes articles about recreational vehicles. For a great resource for rv insurance visit quickrvinsurancequotes.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eriani_Doyel
]]>www.classblife.comInsurance2008-09-12T12:52:00-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-14http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-14If you are concerned about the additional cost of RV insurance on top of your RV payments, then you should figure it in to the monthly payment amount before you buy your recreational vehicle if possible. It is very similar to when you figure out a mortgage payment. You always want to know the cost after the taxes and insurance are added in.
Here are some reasons to purchase an RV insurance policy:
1. An RV policy covers claims that a regular auto insurance policy does not cover. It is similar to combining a house and auto policy into one. If someone accidentally trips going up the stairs in your RV and hurts themselves, your RV insurance policy would cover that.
2. A good RV insurance policy will give you great replacement coverage. If you purchase the RV new, and you are the original owner, and your RV is totaled in the first 5 years, you can get a brand new replacement RV of the same quality as your old RV. After the first 5 years, you will be given what you paid for the RV brand new. If you buy a used RV you will be given the purchase price towards the cost of another RV.
3. What kind of RV do you own? Whether it is a simple truck camper or a fully equipped diesel pusher you can get RV insurance coverage. It also does not matter what the age of your RV is.
If you want peace of mind and to protect your investment, RV insurance is a necessary purchase. It may end up saving you money and hassle over the long run. If you want an even greater peace of mind, you should also consider purchasing an extended warranty. The manufacturer’s warranty on an RV is usually only about 3 years long. Bumper to bumper is often shorter. An extended warranty takes the worry out of travel.


Eriani Doyel writes articles about RVs. If you would like to know more about getting an RV insurance policy visit quickrvinsurancequotes.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eriani_Doyel
]]>www.classblife.comInsurance2008-09-12T12:50:49-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-13http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-13RV drivers are required by law to have liability coverage, just like people who drive conventional vehicles. This protects other drivers that the RV may collide with, ensuring that if the RV inflicts damage on another vehicle, that damage will be paid for out of the RV driver’s insurance. Liability coverage is the bare minimum required by most states.
Collision insurance covers any damage to the RV if any type of collision occurs. Another important type of coverage is uninsured driver insurance. This type of coverage protects the RV driver from having to personally pay for any damages to the RV done by uninsured motorists. Total loss coverage ensures that if the RV is damaged beyond repair, the insurance will cover the cost of its replacement. This type of insurance protects the RV owner from any liability for injury or damage that may occur in the direct vicinity of the RV in a campsite.
Since RVs can be dwellings as well as vehicles, the property inside the RV should also be covered. The law does not require this coverage, but it is a good idea, especially for people who live primarily in their RV. RVs contain items that cars don’t have, such as furniture and appliances. If the RV is damaged extensively, these items could require repair or replacement. Other items such as plumbing and electrical components of the RV can also be insured. Many people store things like clothes, TVs, computers, and camping gear in their RVs. Just like in a home, these items can be damaged or stolen while on the road, so it is a good idea to purchase insurance for them. Many RV insurance policies are designed for people whose RV is their primary residence. These policies cover all vehicular and home aspects of the RV.
RV insurance policies are complicated, but it is vital that RV owners purchase the right coverage. The bare minimum is not enough for people who live in their recreational vehicle.


RV Insurance Info provides detailed information about RV insurance quotes, policies, and companies, RV rental insurance, and more. RV Insurance Info is the sister site of RV Rentals Web.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elizabeth_Morgan]]>www.classblife.comCooking2008-09-12T12:49:57-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-12http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-12
ADVANCED FOOD PREPARATION

The secret to easy RV cooking is to be prepared. Planning ahead simplifies campground

When deciding what to eat on your vacation, consider cooking some meals at home before your trip. Foods such as stews, soups, sauces, and meatballs can be prepared at home and frozen. Beef and chicken can be precooked and cut into bitesize pieces to aid in the preparation of stews and casseroles at camp.

The amount of food that you precook depends, of course, on the capacity of your freezer and refrigerator. Even if available space is limited, try to include at least one precooked meal. I've found that the first-night dinner practically ready to eat when you pull into camp is especially appreciated after a long day's drive.

Another time- and energy-saving tip is to premix dry ingredients for meat rubs, brownies, and corn bread and place them in reclosable bags for easy use. When at camp, you can stir in the wet ingredients. I also premix breading for fish and chicken and store these mixtures in reclosable bags in the refrigerator.

Save additional time at mealtime by letting someone else do the work for you. Keep prepared ingredients on hand for quick-and-easy preparation. Shortcut products provide variety without sacrificing flavor.

Stocking favorite seasonings, prepared sauces, and packaged casserole mixes reduces your time in the kitchen. Consider including these shortcut products: pre-cut fruits and vegetables, packaged coleslaw and salad mixtures, deli salads, jarred/canned salads, pre-shredded cheese, bread and cake mixes, store-bought cookies, frozen pies and cakes, frozen hamburger patties, and canned chicken.

EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT AND FOOD

Be advised that some camping locations will not have electricity. If you don't have a generator or solar powered batteries, you will need to plan for those occasions by including additional equipment. For example, if you rely on an electric can opener and an electric coffeemaker, include a manual can opener and an espresso coffeepot.

On the other hand, I've also had the misfortune of running out of propane at inopportune times, usually in the midst of preparing a meal. At these times, an electric skillet or an extra burner has saved the day.

Although at most camping locations you have access to a wide variety of fresh foods, be prepared for unusual circumstances. Out-of-the-way stores are not restocked as efficiently as urban stores; they frequently run out of milk, bread, and produce. Stock non-dairy creamer, extra crackers, and dried or canned fruit in your RV pantry.

MORE INFORMATION
For additional RV cooking tips, information on how to select basic supplies and equipment plus 381 delicious RV-tested recipes and 108 menus, see AMERICA'S BEST RV COOKBOOK by Joyce Ryan, $16.95, paperback. The cookbook is available from RVbookstore.com

]]>www.classblife.comCooking2008-09-12T12:49:03-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-11http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-11During those camping times and since our mother was not near by to feed us, our father was apart from the designated driver and the leader of our group, also the cook that served us some of the best meals we have ever tasted; probably because we were really hungry by the time we eat. The truth is that I still remember the taste of his pasta and if I could go back in time, I would love to experience again the thrill of singing with my brother while our dad was smiling cooking his amazing pasta on our carry on kitchen supplies.
Other campers tend to agree with my remark as they support that camping cooking can be some of the best cooking there is. Close to the environment and while being able to smell all that wonderful tasty food coming out of the fire, many agree that there is nothing better. If you are a beginner in camping, you should know that there are several different methods that can be used when cooking while camping, like wood fires, camp charcoal, stoves, foil cooking and more. The type of cooking method is directly related to the food you will decide to make and how you like it cooked sometimes decides what method you should be using. But then again there are several camping cooking tips to consider before cooking and camping out.
Consider freezing the meat for instance. Freezing it ahead of time can keep the meat fresh and other foods cool as well. My father used to be proactive like that and plan ahead of time. He also used plastic bags or containers to keep measured portions of the food that was about to consumed, safely contained. I think it is also best if you want to avoid food from sticking to the pans to apply oil on the grill. Finally, put matches somewhere safe to keep them dry as many camping cookbook recipes require the use of natural fire and there is no better way to start a fire than with matches. You can also keep your drinks in a separate cooler from food as it can helps keep foods colder longer avoiding any kind of spoilage. Finally, a great tip is to keep water bottles when they are empty because they can become great camping cooking containers to put the salad dressing, oils, or any other liquid substance.


Kadence Buchanan writes articles on many topics including the outdoors, recreation, and traveling.
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]]>www.classblife.comCooking2008-09-12T12:48:03-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-10http://www.classblife.com/page5/page5.html#unique-entry-id-10If that sounds even the slightest bit familiar then you are in the right place. Over the past decade or so I have refined a list of 7 things that I use every single time I prepare for my next camping trip.
These strategies are relevant whether you are car camping, primitive camping, RV camping, scout camping or large group camping. You can very easily apply them across any type of trip, which is what really makes them worthwhile.
So here they are:
1. Plan the Meals – Okay common sense right? Well If I didn’t include this as the first and most important item I would get hollered at! But seriously, if you don’t plan the meals ahead of time not only do you not know what you’re going to eat you also have no idea what to pack as far as cooking gear is concerned. Do you need a spatula or tongs? Do you need a strainer or a frying pan?
2. Plan the Gear – This follows directly from number 1. Now that you know what you are going to eat for the trip you can now figure out exactly what utensils, pots, pans, containers and other miscellaneous cooking gear you need. And more importantly what gear you don’t need! My family and I do a lot of tent camping which means that we take my wife’s SUV, so we have a very limited amount of room that we must pack all of our “stuff” into. If I only need a 2 quart pot and a small frying pan well guess what, the 9 other pots and 4 other frying pans stay at home!
3. Plan the Condiments – Have you ever went camping and once you get there you realize that you don’t have ketchup, mustard or relish for your nice, hot and juicy steakburger you just cooked for yourself? Have you ever went camping and it took you 10 minutes to find the garlic powder because it found it’s own way to the bottom of the box you keep all your spices in? There is a fine line between having too many spices/condiments and not having enough but you have to walk that line. Even if you have a 40 foot Class A Mega Super Duper Motor home, you only have so much space. Sit down and look at the recipe’s you are going to use and then figure out what spices/condiments you can bring and which ones to leave at home.
4. 10% Above – Get 10% more food then you think you should take. If your family usually eats 4 hamburgers, take 5 or 6. If they usually eat 6 pieces of Corn on the Cob take 8. I don’t know for sure what it is but whenever you go camping everybody seems to be HUNGRY all the time. It might be because they are running around doing more stuff or it might be something in the air, I don’t know.
5. KIS – Keep It Simple. Realize that you are going to be in the middle of the woods. Is it possible to cook a Rack of Lamb with Herb-Dijon Nut Crust, Parisienne Potatoes, Green Beans Wrapped In Carrot Ring and Pureed Sweet Potato Basket? Yes it is technically possible. Should you attempt it? Heck NO! Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying to plan 3 square of milk and cereal. I am saying to remember where you are going to be and the mostly primitive cooking tools you will have at your disposal. 6. Test Runs- If you are planning on cooking on a campfire, or using a new grill, or cooking in your RV for the first time on your next trip…Don’t Do It! Always, always, always do a test run at home before you get out there. Build a little fire in your backyard and figure out if you need some charcoal to bolster the wood fire and make it cook more evenly. Make sure you know how to hook up that new grill and where the hot spots are. It is really not a lot of fun to get out into the woods somewhere and burn your dinner to a crisp or have it sitting in the bottom of the campfire because of a “equipment malfunction”. So always do a test run.
7. Try a new Treat – Remembering strategy number 6, my family always tries a new treat whenever we go camping. Whether it be a new recipe for our green bean casserole or a naughty little after dinner snack, we try something new every time. This doesn’t have to mean something exotic that you’re not sure the animals would even like. Just look around on the internet, there are a ton of campfire / Dutch oven recipes out there for you to try.
Well that’s it, that’s my list of 7 Need to Know Campsite Cooking Strategies. This is not a wish-list or a group of things I pulled out of thin air. I use this list each and every time I plan a trip for my family, my friends and my troop. This list if used properly will keep you in good stead for your trips. You won’t run out of food, you won’t eat bland food, you won’t bring home a ton of unused and possibly spoiled food and most importantly dinner won’t be a chore while camping.


Eric Stephenson is an avid camper and publisher of http://www.NJCampingInfo.com where you will get all the information you will ever need about camping in New Jersey as well as information about camping and the latest technologies and products related to camping. This article is copyrighted. It may be reproduced only if the hyperlinks here are left intact.
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]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:48:26-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-8http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-8When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. Caution: Never drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. There’s one more thing left to do, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all the drains. Now, do not make the mistake that this is how you winterize the RV water system. If you do, it can be a very costly mistake next spring. All we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. If by accident you forget to drain the water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You just need to sanitize the water system. Start by draining all of the old water out, and then close all of the drains. Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all of the hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets and let it sit for about twelve hours. Drain the entire system and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. It’s also a good idea to use a water filter at campgrounds and to keep bottled water on hand for drinking. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:47:17-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-7http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-7There are lots of things to do and to see in the wintertime; beautiful winter scenery, snow skiing, hunting, riding snowmobiles and much more. It’s no wonder so many people enjoy using their RV’s year round. When winter approaches each year I get numerous e-mails requesting information about using RV’s in cold temperatures. One reason I haven’t written on this subject in the past is because it would require more than just a short article to thoroughly cover this topic. Another reason for not writing about this in the past is that there are no guarantees that your RV can or will be 100 percent protected from the harsh winter elements by following written advice on the subject. What I can do is offer you some suggestions and ideas that will help to protect your RV if you plan to use it during the cold winter months. I just can’t guarantee that it will be 100 percent protected. These suggestions and ideas are for short term winter camping in your RV. If you plan to take extended RV trips in cold weather there are many other precautions and measures that need to be considered, like using insulated skirting around the bottom of the RV for example. Note: What we will be concentrating on is how to protect your RV during cold weather camping. It is extremely important that you also understand how to protect yourself and other campers in cold temperatures. One of the first considerations for cold weather RVing is if you will be traveling in temperatures below freezing. If this is the case, and there is water in the RV water system, your plumbing lines or water heater tank could freeze, resulting in costly repair bills, not to mention ruining your winter wonderland RV trip. To avoid this from happening I travel with the water system winterized. It is actually much easier to winterize an RV than most people think it is, and it’s not very expensive either. I have winterized and de-winterized our RV as many as four times in one winter. Note: Our “Winterizing & Storing Your RV” DVD will teach you how to winterize your RV, by yourself, and save money, especially if you enjoy using your RV during the winter months. The good news is it is still possible to use the bathroom facilities when you are traveling with the RV winterized. We take one gallon jugs filled with water to use in the toilet, and if your holding tanks are not heated you can put some RV antifreeze in the holding tanks to prevent the contents from freezing. Add the RV antifreeze through the toilet for the black water holding tank and down the shower or tub drain for the gray water tank. The antifreeze will also protect the shower or tub P-trap which is usually located below floor level. The amount of antifreeze required for the holding tanks will be based on the size of the tanks, and it will be necessary to add more RV antifreeze as waste water is added to the tanks to prevent the antifreeze from being diluted. Don’t allow the holding tanks to fill completely, before emptying them, during cold weather camping. This will reduce the chance of freezing, resulting in damage to the holding tanks. Take bottled water along for drinking and other needs like cooking, washing up and brushing your teeth when the RV is winterized. We have a five gallon jug that we always take on trips, filled with tap water from our house, for our pet’s drinking water and our other needs. This comes in handy when the RV is winterized. When we arrive at our destination I try to select a site that will be exposed to the sun throughout the day, but also where there is some type of wind break available. Position the RV on the site so the front or rear will be facing the brunt of any wind, not the side of the RV. If there is an electrical hook-up I de-winterize the water system so we can use everything. All of the water lines in our motorhome are above floor level, in a heated space, so we don’t need to be too concerned about the water system freezing as long as the RV has heat. We leave the water heater turned on whenever the water heater tank is full so there is no chance of it freezing. Some water heaters operate off of LP gas and electricity. Keep in mind if it’s in the electric mode it will use 9 to 13 amps. It’s important that you know where all of the plumbing on your RV is located. Some RVs have heat ducts going to the basement storage areas where the water system is exposed to outside temperatures, but many RVs do not. If portions of the RV water system are below floor level, in areas that are not heated, it is possible for it to freeze and damage the water lines. If you are hooked up to an external water supply one option is to leave a faucet in the RV dripping, to keep the water moving, and decrease the possibility of water lines freezing. Another option is to use heat tape to protect the exposed water lines. Heat tape can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores. Make sure it is suitable for the types of water lines in your RV, and if you plan to use it on a water hose. If it is extremely cold outside and the possibility exists that the outside water supply could freeze, or if the campground water supply is shut off for the winter, I fill our fresh water holding tank and use it for all of our water requirements. Again, keep in mind where your fresh water tank is located; ours is above floor level in a heated area. If the campgrounds shower facilities are still open it’s a good idea to use them to avoid the gray water holding tank from filling so quickly. In this situation it might be in your best interest to keep the RV winterized and just use the campgrounds facilities. Tip: If you haven’t purchased your RV yet and you know you will be using an RV in cold weather make sure to include an artic package option when you buy it. Some packages include higher R-factor insulation, enclosed underbelly, heated holding tanks, dual pane windows and more. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:46:22-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-6http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-6T Tag Axle - A non-drive axle located behind the rear drive axle that is used to support the weight of the RVs overhang. Three Way Refrigerator - An RV refrigerator that can operate off of 12-volt DC, 120-volt AC and LP gas. Toad - Another term used for the vehicle towed behind a motor home. Also called a dinghy. Tongue Jack - The jack mounted on the A frame of the trailer that supports the front of the trailer and is used to raise and lower the trailer when hitching and unhitching. Tongue Weight -Tongue Weight or Hitch Weight is the amount of weight pressing down on the vehicle’s hitch from the coupler of the trailer when the trailer is fully loaded for travel. For trailers that weigh over 2,000 pounds TW should be 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight. Tote tank - A portable tank used to dump the contents of a holding tank in to and then transport it to a dump station to be emptied. Tow Bar - A tow bar is used to connect a towed vehicle to a motor home when the vehicle is towed with all four wheels on the ground. Tow Dolly - A trailer used to tow a vehicle behind a motor home when the vehicle cannot be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two of the vehicles wheels are on the tow dolly and two are on the road surface. Toy Hauler - An RV that has a ramp door on the back and cargo space to load motorcycles, ATVs or other toys inside. Transmission Oil Cooler - A small heat exchanger or radiator designed to protect your transmission from overheating. Automatic transmission fluid circulates through the oil cooler and is cooled by the airflow. Travel Trailer - An RV that is towed by a car, van, or pickup, by means of a hitch. Travel Trailers are a popular choice among RVers because of the wide array of floor plans available. Whether it’s for two people or eight you can find a model that will suit your needs. They range in size from 15 to 37 feet and offer all the comforts of home. They can be unhitched from the tow vehicle when you arrive at your destination. Truck Camper - Truck campers are campers loaded onto the bed of a pickup truck. The tailgate is removed and the truck camper is attached to the truck with tie-downs. This makes for a very versatile RV that can access back roads and remote areas other RVs can’t get to. TT - Abbreviation for travel trailer. TV - Abbreviation for tow vehicle. W Water Pressure Regulator - A water pressure regulator is used to prevent too much water pressure from entering the RV and damaging the plumbing system. You attach the pressure regulator to the campground water supply and then attach one end of your drinking hose to the regulator and the other end to the city water inlet on the RV. Weight Carrying Hitch - When all of the tongue weight of the trailer is supported by the hitch itself. WC hitches are normally used for lighter trailer applications. Too much weight directly on the hitch can affect the steering and handling of the tow vehicle. Weight Distributing Hitch - when additional hardware is used to distribute a percentage of the trailers tongue weight to the axles of the tow vehicle and the axles of the trailer. WD hitches are used to tow heavier trailers and allow the tow vehicle to handle better. Also referred to as an equalizing hitch. Wheelbase - The distance between the centerlines of the primary axles of a vehicle. Wide Body - An RV that is wider than 8’. The majority of RVs are 8’ wide. A wide body RV is usually 8’ 6” wide. This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:45:12-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-5http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-5O OEM - Abbreviation for Original Equipment Manufacturer Overhang - The portion of the motor home that extends from the rear axle to the rear of the motor home. P Park Model - An RV trailer designed to be taken to a location such as a campground or resort area and set up permanently. A park model trailer has more household type features and amenities than a travel trailer. Pilot Flame - The pilot flame is a small flame used to light the main burner of an LP gas fired appliance. The pilot flame heats a thermocouple control that opens the flow of gas to the burner. Porpoising - A term used to describe the up and down movement of an RV when traveling. Portable Toilet or Porta Potty - A portable RV toilet with a fairly small water tank and holding tank. When the holding tank is full it can be removed and emptied at a dump station. Pull Through Site - A campground site that requires no backing. The site is designed for you to drive or pull through. R Refer - A short term for your RV refrigerator. Regulator- LP gas regulators control or regulate the LP gas flow through all appliances, and maintain the proper operating pressure in the LP gas system. Rig - A term RVers use for their RV. RV - Abbreviation for Recreation Vehicle. A Recreation Vehicle combines transportation and living quarters for recreation, camping, and travel. They can be classified in two basic groups, motorized RVs and towable RVs. Motorized RVs include Class A, Class B and Class C motor homes. Towables include pop-ups, travel trailers, fifth wheels and truck campers. RVDA - Recreation Vehicle Dealers Association RVIA - Recreation Vehicle Industry Association S Safety Chains - Safety chains are used on trailers in case of a hitch failure. One end of the chain is attached to the trailers A-frame, and the other end to a permanent fixture on the tow vehicle, normally the receiver. The chains are crossed “X” to form a saddle that would prevent the coupler from contacting the road surface in the event of a separation. Screen Room - A screened in enclosure that attaches to the exterior of an RV. They provide protection from insects and rain. Screen rooms are most commonly used with pop-ups. Sewer hose - A flexible hose that attaches to the RV sewer outlet and the campground sewer used to dump or empty holding tanks. You should have a 10’ and 20’ hose available with necessary sewer hose attachments. Sewer hose donut - A plastic or rubber ring used to get a good seal between the sewer hose and the campground sewer connection. Sewer hose donuts are required at many campgrounds. Shore Power - Shore power is a term used for plugging the RV in to an external 120-volt power source such as at a campground. Slide-In - A truck camper that slides in to the bed of a pickup truck. Slide-Out - A section of the RV that slides out to provide you with additional living space. Some RVs have multiple slide outs. Slider Hitch - A 5th wheel hitch used with short wheel base pickup trucks. With short wheel base trucks the front of the 5th wheel trailer can make contact with the cab of the truck when turning to sharp. A slider hitch has two positions. One for normal driving conditions and one for maneuvering where turns are required. Snowbird - RVers that head south for the winter. Stabilizer Jacks - Jacks that are used on the corners of an RV to stabilize it when it is set up at the campground. Some are mounted to the frame of the RV and others are portable. Stabilizer jacks are not designed to level the trailer Stick and Tin - An RV with wood framing and corrugated aluminum exterior. Surge Brakes - A hydraulic braking system used on some lightweight trailers. Surge brakes activate when the trailer surges or pushes against the hitch ball when slowing down. Sway Control - A device used to help control trailer sway. There are two basic types of add on sway control, friction and cam action. This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:44:01-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-4http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-4H Heat Strip - An electric heating element in a roof mounted air conditioner. These are usually used on pop-ups or other trailers that do not have a furnace. A heat strip will take the chill off, but is not designed to actually heat the trailer. Hitch Receiver- The hitch receiver is mounted to the frame of the tow vehicle. The ball mount slides into the receiver. There are five classes of hitch receivers based on the maximum amount of weight the receiver can handle. Hitch Weight - Hitch weight or Tongue Weight (TW) is the amount of weight pressing down on the vehicle’s hitch from the coupler of the trailer when the trailer is fully loaded for travel. For trailers that weigh over 2,000 pounds TW should be 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight. For fifth wheel trailers hitch weight should be 15 to 20 percent of the loaded trailer weight. Hydraulic Leveling Jacks - Used for leveling an RV, typically a Class A motor home, they are leveling jacks that operate using hydraulics and are controlled by levers or a touch pad normally located near the drivers seat. I Inverter - An electrical device that changes12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power. It is used to power 120-volt appliances or electronics such as a microwave or TV when you don’t have access to an external 120-volt power source. The amount of power that is available depends on the storage capacity of your battery(s) and the wattage rating for the inverter. K Kilowatts - Power generators are rated in kilowatts. Each kilowatt equals 1,000 watts. L LP Gas - Liquid propane or liquefied petroleum is the gas used for RV appliances. Typically it is used for the range burners, oven, water heater and the LP gas mode of the refrigerator. LP gas is stored in cylinders or bottles on trailers and in tanks mounted to the frame of motor homes. LP Gas Leak detector - LP gas leak detectors are audible alarms that warn you of a potential gas leak. They are normally located close to the floor level of the RV because LP gas is heavier than air and will settle towards the floor. M MH - Abbreviation for Motor Home. Monitor Panel - Allows you to check or monitor the fluid levels in the gray, black and fresh water holding tanks. You can also check the condition of the auxiliary battery(s) and on some monitor panels the propane level. N NADA Book - The RV edition of the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) book is used by RV dealers to determine used RV values. This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
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RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:07:12-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-2http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-2Fall is the time of year you need to decide if your camping season is over. Parking your RV for the winter requires some preventive measures so it will be ready to use next spring. You’ll also be glad you did it when you don’t have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of winter. Now the question is how do you prepare it for winter, and who will be doing it? If you’re like me and you enjoy performing the routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars, the “who” part is answered. As for the “how” part, this checklist is the same one I used to make our Winterizing & Storing video. I feel it is the easiest and most effective way to winterize your RV.
Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores: Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do). A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed. A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump. Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs. Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV. If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass them before starting. Drain the fresh water holding tank. Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves. Drain the water heater. CAUTION: Never drain when hot or under pressure. Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower. Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained. Recap all drains and close all faucets. By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze. Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze. Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required. Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower. Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears. Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen. Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a few cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank. If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored. Make sure all faucets are closed. Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines. Your RV is winterized. This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines.
Happy Camping! Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
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]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:07:03-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-1http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-1I guess because I work in the RV Industry and around RVs almost everyday I take some things for granted. One of those things is RV terminology. When you hear these terms everyday you just assume that everybody understands them. A Aluminum Frame Construction - When the RV framing is made of aluminum as opposed to wood. Artic Package - An RV that is equipped with additional insulation and heated holding tanks for winter camping. Awning - A canvas or vinyl covering mounted to the side of an RV that provides shade. Some awnings are retractable and use a spring-loaded roller tube. Other awnings must be rolled out by hand and are supported by poles, rope tie downs and stakes. Axle Ratio - The number of times the drive shaft must turn to turn the axle one time. If you have a 3.73:1 axle ratio the drive shaft turns 3.73 times for each full turn of the axle. The higher the numeric value of the axle ratio the better the vehicle will tow, and the higher the numeric value the more gas you will use. B Backup Monitor - A monitor located in the driver’s view that is attached to a small camera on the back of a motor home. It is used to assist in backing the motor home and to monitor what is happening behind you while you are traveling. Ball & Ball Mount - Hitch balls have three basic measurements, the ball diameter, the shank diameter and the shank length. Ball diameter sizes come in 1 7/8”, 2” and 2 5/16”. The ball size must be the right size for the coupler on the trailer you are towing, and be rated to tow the trailers GVWR. The ball mount is the removable portion of the hitch that slides into the hitch receiver. For Weight Carrying (WC) hitches it may be necessary to find a ball mount with a drop or rise to help level the trailer when its hooked up to the tow vehicle. An adjustable ball mount is used for heavier trailer applications. Adjustable ball mounts allow the ball to be raised, lowered or tilted to compensate for trailer tongue weight and to attain proper height adjustments. Adjustable ball mounts are normally used with Weight Distributing (WD) hitches. Basement Storage - Storage compartments or storage area located below the floor of the motor home. You access the storage from outside. Some storage areas are referred to as pass through storage, which means it goes from one side of the RV to the other with no dividers, and can be accessed from either side. Black Water Holding Tank - A tank mounted under the RV that collects water and waste from the toilet. When the tank is 3⁄4 or more full it is emptied or dumped into an approved dump station or campground sewer. The black water tank is treated with chemicals to control odor and assist in breaking down waste. Brake Controller - An electronic controller that is normally mounted under the dashboard of the tow vehicle, but within hands reach of the driver. The controller is designed to activate the trailer brakes when the tow vehicle brakes are applied. It also has a manual over ride that can be used to activate the trailer brakes without using the vehicle brakes. Breakaway Switch - A switch that is wired into the trailers brake system. It is attached from the trailer to the tow vehicle by a cable lanyard. In the event that the trailer and vehicle separate the cable pulls a pin from the switch and the trailer brakes are activated. The switch must have a 12-volt source to operate. Bumper Pull - A term used to describe towing a travel trailer or pop-up. Also referred to as a pull behind. C Cab over - The portion of a class C motor home that extends over the vehicle cab. It is usually designed as a bed. Campground Hook-Ups - When you hook-up or connect your RV to the campground electric, water and sewer utilities. This would be considered a full hook-up. Some campgrounds may only offer one or two of these connections. Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC) - is the maximum permissible weight of personal belongings and cargo that can be added to the RV. CCC is equal or less than GVWR minus UVW, full fresh water weight, and full LP gas weight. City Water Connection - A water connection on the outside of the RV that is used when you have an external water supply such as at a campground. A potable water hose is used to connect the water supply to the city water connector on the RV. Class A or Type A motor home - They are the largest of the motorized RV’s ranging in size from 25 to 45 feet. Commonly referred to as a conventional motor home they are the ones you see that look similar to a bus, and depending on the price they can be equipped with features like washers and dryers, multiple slide out rooms, satellite dishes, home entertainment systems and much more. Class B or Type B motor home - They are the smallest of motorized RV’s ranging in size from16 to 20 feet. They are conversion vans that have been modified and equipped with sleeping, eating and bathroom facilities and amenities found in other RVs in a compact size. Class C or Type C motor home - They are also referred to as mini-motor homes and are built on a cutaway van chassis. They range in size from 20 to 31 feet. Converter - An electrical device that converts 120-volt AC power into 12-volt DC power. With the exception of the roof air conditioner, microwave, TV and the electric mode of the refrigerator almost everything in an RV operates on 12-volt DC power supplied by a battery. When you’re plugged in to a 120-volt electrical source the converter changes the 120-volts AC to 12-volts DC so everything can operate without draining the battery(s). The converter also has a battery charger that will keep the battery(s) topped off when you are plugged in to a 120-volt power source. Coupler- Located on the front of the trailer A-frame the coupler attaches the trailer to the ball on the hitch. This list is not all-inclusive, but if you learn these terms you will soon be understanding RV terminology. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
http://www.rveducation101.com/
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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Polk

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

]]>www.classblife.comGeneral RVing2008-08-09T07:06:37-07:00http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-0http://www.classblife.com/page5/files/aug-2008#unique-entry-id-0When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. Caution: Never drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. There’s one more thing left to do, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all the drains. Now, do not make the mistake that this is how you winterize the RV water system. If you do, it can be a very costly mistake next spring. All we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. If by accident you forget to drain the water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You just need to sanitize the water system. Start by draining all of the old water out, and then close all of the drains. Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all of the hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets and let it sit for about twelve hours. Drain the entire system and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. It’s also a good idea to use a water filter at campgrounds and to keep bottled water on hand for drinking. Happy Camping, Mark Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
http://www.rveducation101.com/
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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Polk

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

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